Dubrovnic and Cavtat

Yesterday we woke to a dull morning with light Southerly winds.
We motored from our secluded island anchorage to the main industrial port of Dubrovnik. There were half a dozen floating hotels moored up there. The size of these vessels has to be seen close up from water level to be appreciated, and hats off to the bridge teams for they way they manage close quarters manoeuvring in restricted waters.


Our aim was to refuel before heading on to Montenegro. The fuel station is in fact a petrol station along side an old yacht club. This is now in the middle of a huge brand new marina area which looked as though it would take many hundreds of yachts. It was however completely empty. The fuel station has a strange configuration with a very small pontoon to come alongside in the midst of a host of moored small craft.I think this is from a previous era when boats were smaller.
 We managed to bring our aft half of the boat alongside this pontoon and waited. Eventually Margaret went into the filling station to be told it was self service! Never come across that in a marine fuel station before where usually there is a bloke to take your warps and dispense advice.

After fuelling we then had a very tricky manoeuvre to get off. Our port aft section is alongside the pontoon, there is a 10knot breeze on the starboard quarter, the prop walk in reverse takes the stern to port. I considered putting on a spring from amidships to the rear shore cleat to spring out the stern, however that would result in the forward section pivoting forward of the short pontoon. Similarly a spring from our stern to shore amidships would allow the forward section to spring off but there was not enough room to turn the boat in that direction. Diagram below -advice from Yachtmasters welcome.
 

We then motored across the river estuary to the official harbour area which is dominated by pilot boats, harbour master offices and the Q berth for parking in when clearing customs. The pilot books stated that it was possible to moor there. We went alongside the stone quay. Margaret then went to seek permission and came back with a chastened look. Neither the port police (Lady! you cant walk there) nor the harbour master, nor the Marina office seemed ever to have had such an outlandish request before. We had to call the Port Authority on Channel 09. "Where are you? In front of the Pirate ship! You can't stay there, no not even for shopping. Go."

So off we went. We sailed further along the coast and drove by Dubrovnik old city which is spectacular from that perspective. Although it is clearly a huge tourist attraction and looks a bit like a Disney construct, it is still a live town with people living in the precariously placed housing in the walls. There is real washing out to dry.

We then sailed a further 10 miles down the coast to the small town of Cavtat. The entrance into the main town bay takes a bit of scrutiny with shoals, rocks and hazard markers all over the place. However the next bay north of the town is easy entry and is a wonderful sheltered anchorage. It also seems to be uncharged. An issue that needs to be understood in Croatia is that various anchorages have been given over to local concessionaires who will come and ask for cash. This entirely legal and is still a lot cheaper than Marinas which are eye-wateringly expensive, but still may be $15- 20 per night. A very useful website has been compiled by a German chap which shows up to date information of charged and free anchorages and moorings and is essential reading for cruising this area. 

http://www.wosamma.at/bojenfelder/map.php

The Croatian yacht charter industry is now the biggest in the world and is becoming a major part of their economy. It is therefore not surprising they are organising to maximise thee income. The model is that boats with 6 people on board for fortnights booze a cruise can readily afford to stay in Marinas at £70-100 per night, where they can eat out and shower ashore. However this is not sustainable for long term cruising couples. However people in our situation are clearly not valued and indeed a kind of get the impression we are seen as marine hobos, not profitable and to be suffered for short periods and moved along.

Cavtat is the most charming little town we have visited so far. It has a broad bay frontage with a large range of restaurants. It has been made vehicle free and it was Margaret who pointed out that this makes a great difference to the felling of the place which has a serenity about it. This despite the large number of UK and Irish tourists about. 


We dinghyed ashore and decided to take a break here for a day. Today we walked up to the town Mausoleum and graveyard on the crest of the hill between the two bays looking up towards the walls of Dubrovnik. Quite a few graves of young men from 1991-2 which is sobering. However a pretty good spot to spend eternity.

We have now used one of our two tanks of 200litres of water. When we tried a sneaky fill up in Dubrovnik before we were run out of town we found our connector did not fit. They have a threaded connector on the shore taps whereas we have the clip on hose connector. So we visited most every shop in Cavtat today trying to find a connector. Not a chance, even when Margaret tried to draw a diagram of what she was after to the ladies in the souvenir shop.

We visited the harbourmaster to see if we could check out of Croatia today and leave tomorrow. No chance. We have to be present and correct with the vessel in the customs Q berth tomorrow morning and 8 o'clock and then leave Croatian waters by the most direct route immediately. I just hope our papers are in order. More on international maritime border crossing tomorrow. Gulp.

Cavtat goes up and up in our estimation by the discovery of a waterside vegetarian restaurant. That was our venue for tonight.

Afterwards we attended a guitar and piano concert in the Franciscan monastery cloisters. Very sophisticated!


Looks like religion had a hard time here under communism?






Colin