A trip North


Misty headlands and settled sea.
We motored from Fiskardo to Meganisi. There were a few periods of just about sailable wind but mostly a gentle motor in warm sunny weather.
The boat has a very user friendly motor (Volvo Penta D 55 S). It trucks along at 2000 rpm giving 6.5 knots. Many engines will work optimally at higher revs resulting in more vibe and less comfort over longer periods of motoring. It is also quite a quiet motor however the sound insulation in the engine compartment is a bit archaic and is also deteriorating so I intend to re-do this at some point which I expect will make long distance motoring a better experience.
George's pontoons
We moored at Spartachori on Meganisi. This is the site of a fairly serious family feud with tavernas at each end of the bay competing for trade, and apparently at daggers drawn. We did not see daggers but the Maitre D'/ Marinero/ Boss of Porto Spinero, George,  is certainly assertive, with a booming voice heard miles across the water as he issues instructions to the hapless incoming crews. The deal is he "helps" you moor, provides electricity and water and you eat at his taverna, and NOT at the other one across the bay. Fair enough.

View from the top
We have been to Spartachori several times before. The village is perched a few hundred feet above the bay and the walk up there is quite steep but we desperately need the exercise so up we went. The village itself is delightful with flowers overhanging the narrow cobbled streets. A typical little elderly Greek lady in black ushered us towards the church. We followed her in for a look and were very glad we had. It is a spectacular little gem of a church,if you like that sort of thing. It is dedicated to Agios Georgious, of the dragon slaying fame with a large silver tableaux behind glass, (that you are meant to kiss) and wonderful frescoes on the walls depicting George's heroic deeds, as well as maritime storms in the inland Ionian sea. If you come here and hike up the hill it is well worth a look.

We descended to the boat, by which time the late afternoon arrivals were coming in. One of which was Huw and Geoffey on Seren, their Jeanneau 389. I think they may be stalking M but I decided not to make the allegation until I consider it further. We met up again after dining at George's. Ross and Stuart had kindly left a bottle of Chivas Regal in our locker, so a dent was made in this, and a good night was`had by all.

Help, I've become a Crusoe.
The following morning we set off fairly promptly. A good SE wind was building and we flew N to Lefkas and the canal. The challenge in this situation is to hold your position waiting for the floating bridge to open. There are several issues. There are about a dozen boats waiting. The canal just S of the bridge is about 3 boats wide, there is a 20 knot wind up your chuff and your fellow skippers are a motley bunch of piratical foreigners.
The whole performance is exacerbated by the joker in the control booth whose job it is to minimise the delay to road traffic by the unfortunate necessity of allowing pleasure boats through his domain. He is the big bad troll in charge of the bridge and he does shut it as you are trying to get through!
 A couple of boats actually gave up and headed back to the town for safety.
Eventually we got through and set sail N towards Preveza. There were about 8 boats heading off together under head sail only. I think we were the smallest but apart from one pirate who cut the corner across some mud flats using local knowledge, we were the quickest. Oh I do like this boat!

Wearing a fleece!!
We had chosen to head up to Prevaza  a few days early as bad weather was planned in the various forecasts I use.  I am gaining confidence in different site for different aspects of weather. Windguru is great for rain but consistently under calls wind strength. Meteo is Greek site that is brilliant for subtle changes in wind direction and strength, but does not do rain very well. Poseidon system is another Greek site which is great for a higher level overview. All these are derived from Grib data which again is great for higher level views but does not get local stuff due to topography.

Communist party march - good to see.
Oil change - no mess, honest!

In the past we have often made decisions based on portends of doom with regards the weather only to find it has been overstated. However on this occasion the merchants of doom got it right. We had two days of cloud, chill, high winds and torrential rain. We were glad to be in harbour in Preveza but even so it was significantly uncomfortable, with waves causing a couple of feet of swell, and  sleepless nights despite the vino (M). We nearly abandoned ship and headed for the Ibis!

Today the circumstances miraculously reverted to how it should be, with a clear blue sky, warm winds and flat water in the gulf of  Amvrakikos..

We had our final sail of this trip down the gulf. It was fairly spectacular, a couple of turtles and loads of bottle nosed dolphins. We paused for a while to watch a pod gather a feeding ball of fish. About half a dozen dolphins circled an area 50 yards wide while a range of sea birds dived into the feeding ball and others scavenged the remnants. Spectacular.

Vonitsa was full!
We had planned to stay at a small town called Vonitsa however the town quay was full of local boats so we anchored up for lunch in a bay and then sailed back to Preveza. This was an upwind beat into 20+ knots of wind but this is what Summertime does really well and we enjoyed it greatly.

















Comments

  1. When the revolution comes will you relinquish one of your boats?

    ReplyDelete
  2. When the revolution comes I will have the means of escape!
    Still better to enjoy stuff than sequester it.

    ReplyDelete

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