Around the Cyclades

Naxos-Mykonos-Ios-Amorgos

Our trip to Ios was a bit of an Odyssey. I think M mentioned in a previous blog that we had kind of become a couple during a trip to Ios and Paros at the end of University. It really had to be done so I was pleased when the winds blew us in that direction.

Ios

Our wandering round the Chora was full of nostalgia. I am not sure if we identified previously visited venues accurately, however it does not really matter, it was the visit itself that was important. We did identify the bar that we sat in watching the sunset listening to Mahler (Club Ios), and the hostel where the boys were housed.

We took a walk out to the lighthouse at the point leading into the harbour to find that a good SE blow was in full progress with a sea full of whitecaps and you needed to lean into the wind while walking.

Good blow off Ios

There were two boats coming from the N. The first was a big Jeanneau motoring into the wind and slamming really badly in the waves which looked about 1-2m. The second was a very stylish long ketch which looked like a Sparkman and Stephens. It chose to sail close hauled and did a very long tack and entered the bay under full sail. They both arrived about the same time but it was clear the Ketch had by far the better journey as it cut through the waves on a good point of sail rather than motoring into them. The Ketch was an American boat and the crew finished their day with a very accomplished piece of parking for a long keeled boat. Very interesting to watch.

Jack Sparrow pining as boom blocked up.

We had some avian visitors while in harbour. Two pairs of sparrows decided to nest in the end of our boom. I am not sure what it is about booms but they clearly
are the most attractive nesting spots on the planet. I watched these four fight over the access rights for over an hour. The two males would have a skirmish, and then the females would really go at it. Eventually one male seemed to have won the day, but it would seem the female of the species is pretty fickle, and they both tried to join him. This led to another bout of fierce stramash until it was resolved. At this point I drew M’s attention to events. She decided to block up the hole to prevent illicit activity on board and to try to restrict the deposition of guano in our boom. This worked, but the new couple were incensed and shouted at the unfairness of it. They moved house to inside the sail bag instead, as evidenced by the mess on the sail when hoisted the next morning.

10 huge Russian blokes fit in here?

The entertainment value in watching mooring going wrong is undiminished and compulsive. I think this is because the anxiety amongst skippers of it going wrong for them is such that they take every opportunity to analyse the problems others encounter. It is also the case that it is pleasing to watch someone doing it well, and we learn from that as well. A German couple on a Bavaria called Eos came in a couple of boats away. They reversed in with plenty of distance for the approach, dropped anchor with good communication between them, got lines ashore with a gentle handing of the rope to the Marinero rather than whipping him in the face with a wet cat of nine tails, motored gently ahead while the lazy line was attached at the bow, then motored gently astern while tightening up the stern lines, engine off, everything tight and in a straight line – perfect.

I mentioned to M that these two knew what they were doing and it was nice watching a short handed crew working well together, as we try to.

Ios Chora big square

It is quite a long hike from the Port on Ios up the Chora (village). My memory from 1980 was that the bags were loaded on mules and we went up on Shanks’s pony. Fortunately nowadays there is a bus that leaves promptly on the hour. We visited tavernas in the big square, which is very small, and the small square, which is even smaller. The atmosphere is nice and relaxed and there are still the old chaps in traditional garb playing backgammon and conversing volubly over a coffee that lasts two hours.

Having said that Ios is very progressive in terms of technology. There is powerful free Wifi with excellent bandwidth everywhere on the island. So much so that I downloaded a fair amount of videos from Amazon for subsequent viewing.

We found an excellent Thai restaurant called Thai Smile that is highly recommended, so much so that we went back the second night!

M at the helm.

We left Ios promptly the next morning for Amorgos to the East. We sailed around the top end of Ios in company with a couple of other boats going in the same direction. Again the point of sail varied more with the topography of the islands and the winds funnelling between them than according to the stated direction on ugrib. As we rounded the N end we were sailing on a broad reach with the wind in the SW and looking forward to a good sail all the way to Amorgos. When suddenly, the whole thing reversed as the wind funnelled round the E side of the island and stopped us dead in our tracks!

So we motored for about 10 nm until the afternoon breeze filled in from the S and we managed to sail into Katapolo, the main port on Amorgos. As we approached the harbour the S wind gusted down off the mountains making the manoeuvring a bit tricky, but parking went well.

Amorgos and Katapolo are at the most Easterly end of the Cyclades and one of the least touristy of the islands, not that the others are badly afflicted. The Marinero on the town quay was very helpful but not intrusive. We had a quiet night eating aboard and had a brief perambulation round the town.

The wind increased a bit overnight but we were well dug in. Amorgos, despite its relative isolation, also had excellent free Wifi throughout the port.

The next morning several boats arrived from the surrounding anchorages, presumably they had a bit of a rough night. This resulted in some very bad behaviour from a few of our neighbours who indulged in the standing on the foredeck shouting and whistling about crossed anchors, arm out ahead indicating where they thought their anchor was situated.

Tuarangi is off.

The Marinero who had brought these boats in, and presumably had a mental picture of where the various anchors were actually situated, was trying to issue instructions to the newcomers that were at odds with the foredeck yellers. I don’t get why mooring is such a source of public discord. Crossed anchors can happen, and from time to time will happen, but generally can be easily dealt with. Quite often the foredeck pointers have got it totally wrong. For instance there was an elderly antipodean couple who became totally hysterical when a yacht dropped it's anchor well away from them but during the approach to the berth drifted across where they believed their anchor chain to be. No reassurance from the Marinero could convince them that the physics of the situation was such that this would be OK. Perhaps gravity works the opposite way where they come from.

Fast ferries at Mykonos - Record speed so far -  42.8kts!

It wasn’t until they left the next day that I realised their boat was called Tuarangi, a very famous NZ yacht appellation.

Just after this, Yacht Eos with the German husband and wife team appeared, and I awaited another masterclass. Unfortunately this time it did not go so well. Basically their anchor did not hold, gusting winds blew up, and everything went titten oben.

I won’t go into details for legal reasons, but we got involved in lots of running about, including the Marinero getting on board Eos to help sort it out. Watching it made us relieved that it wasn't us going through it ….not this time.

At the end of it all the skipper came along to offer us a drink with them in thanks for assisting them. We ended up spending the rest of the day with Klaus and Christel, who are a lovely couple. They joined us in the trip to the Monastery and a splendid evening meal in Restaurant Veggera. It turned out that the night before their anchor had dragged at 3 a.m. in an isolated bay when the wind had got up and they had a pretty torrid time. Not the best 24 hrs for them.

These guys are scary .

Ferry wake or Tsunami. we turned and surfed this one.

We  enjoyed their company and hope to meet them again some time.

The point of relating this is to show that even for the most accomplished sailors, things can go wrong. Klaus and Christel have owned their boat for 11 years and are very experienced. This is why skippers are so fascinated by mooring – it is always a potential bump in the road.

Monastery of Hozoviotissa

The main attraction on Amorgos is the Monastery of Hozoviotissa. This is situated on the opposite side of the island.A bus goes from Katapolo up to the Chora high on the mountain and then on to the Monastery and elsewhere, three times a day. The monastery is closed in the afternoon but the bus timetable is planned to work around the opening times.

Madonna and struggling child

It is a working Monastery with 3 resident Monks as well as a group of other staff and security guards. The reason is that some of the most precious artifacts in the Greek Orthodox church are held there, in particular a silver Madonna and Child from the 5^th Century.[ no photos allowed inside].

Hobbits?

It is the most splendid place perched on the side of huge overhanging cliffs and built into the rock itself. It is more like a Game of Thrones set than a 1000 year old building. The climb up the three hundred steps is not too difficult and well worth the effort. It is a very tranquil and beautiful setting. The curator explained that its position was as a defensive structure against raids by pirates. Protection from pirates is the reason that most Cycladic Choras are built inland at the top of the mountain. As you enter the tiny door the narrow corridor weaves past the bulging rock face.

 Gents have to wear trousers and women skirts to enter. M’s choice of baggy trousers did not quite cut muster and she was thoroughly reprimanded by the large bearded Monk, who also graphically explained she should do her shirt up – hussy.

The visit was ended with generous measure of home made Rakomolo and Loukoumi courtesy of the Monastery. The life of a Monk has improved over the centuries but I suspect a long standing association with home brewing.