Dodecanese arrival
Amorgos is the most
Easterly island in the Cyclades so our next trip takes us to our
general destination of the Dodecanese. Not the most imaginatively
named group of 12 islands, a bit like Meganisi (big
island).
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The weather is
unusual, they have had a very wet winter in the Cyclades having
previously had a 22 month period of drought.
While the weather is slowly warming up as summer approaches it is still several degrees colder than usual, just like a perfect summer’s day in the UK.
The winds have been coming from every direction, but predominantly from the W and S.
While the weather is slowly warming up as summer approaches it is still several degrees colder than usual, just like a perfect summer’s day in the UK.
The winds have been coming from every direction, but predominantly from the W and S.
This has meant the
rain, and indeed the air, is carrying vast amounts of Saharan dust
which is a nightmare if you own a white boat. We did own a white
boat, but it is now a weak shade of orangy pink. The only
solution is regular washing with copious amounts of water. This is
fine if you have a paid crew to do this for several hours a day, as
do the Gin Palaces, but no matter how much I cajole and whip the
crew, we are just getting pinker.
We had an early
start from Amorgos and sailed around the N side of the long island
with a light SW breeze, just enough to sail.
On reaching the E
end of the island, the wind direction changed to the S and picked up
a further 10 knots and we were off. Unfortunately it did not last and
was again just a local topographic phenomenon that dies away after
half an hour and we ended up motor-sailing much of the rest of the
way.
We had a couple of
dodges with large tankers coming from the N that tested our nerve and
the use of the AIS. The data showed the Closest Point of Approach to
be a bit under a mile but it was not entirely clear until late in the
day whether this was ahead or astern of us, so deciding to either
speed up or slow down might have been the wrong move. The approaching
behemoth presumably knew which side of us he was heading for, and us
changing speed might compromise this. So as the “stand on”
vessel, we did just that.
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Levita, a bleak place to live |
The island of Levita
is roughly half way from Amorgos to the Dodecanese group and there is
an anchorage on the S side if stopping is required. However the
forecast for the night was S winds that might be a bit uncomfortable
so we carried on.
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Approaching Leros |
Our destination was
Leros, and we managed to sail the last couple of hours right into the
large bay with Lakki, the main port at its head.
There are two full
scale Marinas based here.
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Obstruction at Leros |
At the entrance to
the bay there is an underwater obstruction lying across it. On the
plotter it’s shape is remarkably symmetrical which perplexed me.
There is another strangely shaped obstruction further in the bay.
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HMS Intrepid |
I subsequently found
out that HMS Intrepid was sunk by German Stuka dive bombers in 1943
in Lakki bay. Presumably one of these obstructions is the wreck of
the Intrepid which was 100m in length, but there were several vessels
sunk there and all around the island.
The Battle of Leros
was the last major German military victory of the war and was
fundamentally due to their total air supremacy that allowed them to
bomb allied vessels and positions unrestrictedly.
The joint British and Italian land forces were then overwhelmed by parachutists and amphibious landing.
The joint British and Italian land forces were then overwhelmed by parachutists and amphibious landing.
On shore there is a
well maintained memorial to HMS Intrepid flying Greek colours and the
White Ensign. This episode was the inspiration for the book and film
“The Guns of Navaronne”.
We berthed in Lakki
Marina, which is the smaller of the two, but very friendly and with
excellent showers. Lakki itself seemed a somewhat un-inspiring and forlorn town. The foreshore is a bit bleak and un-developed
in terms of eating/drinking establishments but we were undeterred.
We are now firmly in meze/tapas territory, so a pint of beer is
always accompanied by a plate of whatever is coming out of the
kitchen.
Further exploration
showed it to be a business-like and no-nonsense place. There is an
excellent chandlery and all facilities, although the best Supermarket
is some way from the shore. They do however provide a delivery
service.
We came across
fairly large numbers of migrants/refugees for the first time. I have
to say they mostly seemed content, well clothed and in family groups.
I am not sure what accommodation they have or what their future may
be but I did not get any feeling of antipathy towards them from the
local people. But who knows.
We have now pretty
much finished The Journey part of this voyage. In some ways that is a
bit sad, but there is also a small element of having achieved a goal.
The next bit is about cruising locally, getting to know the
Dodecanese, and preparing for some visitors to arrive.
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A little like Wales? |
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View E from Pandeli |
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View S from Pandeli |
Having climbed all
the way up innumerable steps, it was shut, despite proclamations to
the opposite effect on Google. The town of Leros surrounding the base
of the bluff is pleasant and a bit more cared for than Lakki, with
Italianate architecture and a central square surrounded by nice
cafes. We sat there for a while and watched Greek island life occur.
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Good view. |
There always seems
to be drama, with a group of older blokes having a conversation with
several ladies at the opposite end of the street in what seemed to be
huge volleys of emotionally charged yells. At home the end result
would have undoubtedly been unpleasant in some way but here they all
just seemed to end up laughing and yelling some more. I think it is
European Election day, so perhaps shouting and laughing are both
apposite.
There were also several intense interactions between young
couples with seriously dramatic aspects, including tears and a flounce..
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Clockwise |
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Anticlockwise |
There are some
fundamental cultural differences between Greek people and Brits. One of these is roundabouts. Greek island road planners and drivers just don’t seem to get the purpose of roundabouts. There are fine
examples of recently built roundabouts with clear road markings in both Lakki and the square in Leros. They are
both completely ignored by Greek drivers.
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Clockwise..and parked. |
Basically there must have been a
pre-existing through road, that in the minds of the populace, still maintains its right of way and bi-directional status, and the third limb coming into the roundabout
is still a side street. To be fair to the road planners, it is not
marked in this way, but clearly historic precedent has been
maintained by local drivers, particularly as this forms part of the
main drag for moped racing.
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Anticlockwise |
![]() |
Anticlockwise |
Some were witnessed
to just stop and park in the middle and various interestingly
battered mopeds managed to circuit in opposite directions
simultaneously whilst drinking a latte and using mobile phones.
The main function of
the roundabout is really as a venue for the bit of local civic modern
sculpture or tree that occupies the centre. I had planned to hire a moped but
I don’t think I could cope with this.
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Both!! |
On the way back to
the boat we visited the offices of the other marina in Lakki, Leros
Marina. I got a quotation for winter berthing which I may take up, At
present I have planned to berth in Marmaris but I am a bit concerned
about the consequences of Summertime not being in the EU when Brexit
occurs. The RYA are advising that in that circumstance it would then
not be considered as European Goods. There may be pros and cons.
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Lipso Church |
![]() |
Friendly bar - air dried octopus😱 |
The following
morning we set off N to explore the smaller islands in that
direction. We initially headed towards Patmos to the NW on a breeze
from the W but about half way there the wind shifted to NW and we
were either going to have to motor into quite a lumpy sea or ……
do the sensible thing of diverting to another island, and why
not.
One of the nice things about this type of purposeless sailing is
that there is rarely a reason for it to be unpleasant or arduous. So
off we went towards Lipso to the E.
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There was however quite a roll from the swell we had
encountered earlier which carried on all night despite the sea being
completely calm.
Cant seem to find you on Marine Traffic AIS?
ReplyDeleteThat is because I am not transmitting, just receiving AIS. I think trnasmitting AIS is probably beyond raspberry pi technology, unkess a really clever person knows otherwise,
ReplyDeleteRegards
Colin