Triangulating concerns.

Samos is a large island, but less afflicted by tourism than Kos and Rhodes. We moored up on the town quay of Pythagorion, the main town on the South coast.

There is a lot of history here, as there is almost everywhere round here. But Pythagorian is quite special. It has been a major town since the earliest inhabitation of the island by Ionians around 4000 years ago.

X2+Y2 = H2

Most noticeably Pythagoras was born and lived here, but there were other notables including Polykrates and Eupalinos.

Polykrates was apparently quite a good guy and a revered leader who developed the community on Samos in a very positive way. However he was eventually crucified by the Persians for his troubles. It is often better to be a cruel and bad leader. The good guy always seem to get the rough end of things. No good deed remains unpunished.

Eupalinos' Tunnel

Similarly there were extraordinary building works performed by Eupolinos in around 600BC including a phenomenal water system involving hidden aqueducts and a kilometre long tunnel through a mountain to bring in water to the main city. Having had several previous names the town is now renamed Pythagorion after its most famous son.

There were quite a few skippers who had thoughts, similar to our own, that a couple of days hiding away from the wind was prudent, and the harbour soon filled up. Glad we got in early. This included Suli and the German chaps we had come across in Agathonisi.

On tour

We met with Suli’s crew later that evening. Christine had met up with Andy through a crew matching website. She lives in Rhodes and is trying to get her sailing skills and experience up. Andy is an experienced skipper but had found himself single handed for a while and needed a crew to help getting to his next meet up with family crew. This all seemed to work very well but does require a significant amount of trust and understanding on all sides. A bit like tinder for yachties.

Andy’s boat Suli, is a very good looking Feeling 44, which he re-assured me repeatedly, was very fleet of foot and probably the fastest boat in her class. Hmmmm.

It turned out that Christine had a fascinating career working in a variety of roles in the United Nations involved in disaster relief planning, and had travelled to many of the parts of the world worst afflicted by natural and man made disaster. As with many truly exceptional people she was very humble about her work and required a bit of space to tell about her exploits.

Andy had also had an interesting career in business, but as this had involved successfully suing a major daily newspaper for libel, I won’t say any more or express any views or opinions, but we had a good time with them over the next day or two.

Waterfall walk. Lots of Ents

We shared a car hire with them and drove around the island for a day, which was very interesting, especially to see the non-touristy bits of island life, and listen to occasional gems of Christine’s adventures. We found a really special mountain top village for lunch that was just lovely. Poor Andy had the short straw by having to drive and negotiate some challenging terrain. We all survived although we wont mention the clutch!

On the way to the forum

We visited the excellent archaeological museum in Samos. Samos has been occupied by almost all civilisations in this area since the Neolithic and Pythagorian has been a major settlement for the last 5000 years. So there are layer upon layer of city remnants revealed by the excavations and indeed buildings built at various times remained in use through subsequent eras so the time line is all a bit confusing. Indeed you can see that current structures are just added on top of existing ancient foundations. One lady found the Temple to Apollo in her basement.

Lost in the hills

However the museum does a pretty good job of sorting it all out. I was particularly impressed by the ancient engineering skills that allowed tunnelling from two sides of a mountain with an almost exact meeting in the middle. Pythagoras skills were well used. Amazing what you can do with a few thousand slaves.

Andy and Christine went off for a trip to Ephesis, which is only a short boat trip across the channel. We decided to leave it for another time, and were quite glad when we heard how busy and hot it had been.

Churches, a local specialty 

The weather did not seem to have been quite as adverse as we had anticipated but it is very difficult to be sure what is going on from the safety of a waterfront bar.

Samos to Arki to Kakymnos

However having hunkered down for three days we were desperate to get going again. So we left harbour and headed S on a growing NW breeze. We were heading back to the Pirate’s bay on Arki/Marathonos. 

Suli had left shortly after us and radioed us on the VHF to ascertain our position. Andy signed off with “we will just put out the Genoa and soon catch you up”. 

We could see a boat behind us but as we were hoofing along at 6.5 to 7.5 with reefs in both Genoa and Main, I thought it unlikely they would catch us. I was a bit surprised as I had thought they were going to head W.

Over the next couple of hours the boat tailing us slowly enlarged and was clearly making some progress towards us.

This would never do. Even though we weren’t racing, he might be. I considered putting out more sail, but we were already at not far off hull speed and M was hanging on to stuff tightly.

A good lick

We ploughed on and did a handbrake turn into our destination. He followed us! But then it became clear this was not Suli but a fully crewed modern Beneteau of about 55ft, so I did not feel quite so bad.

Maratho Pirate bay. The flag was shredded since last week!

We enjoyed another peaceful afternoon on the moorings at the Pirate Taverna, although much busier than the last time we were here. However the tranquility came to an abrupt end by the arrival of two charter boats with about eight on board. Unfortunately they proceeded to have a wild time, I mean a really wild time.

Nudity (not recommended for over 60 year olds) ,communal singing, hysterical hooting and laughing until 4 am. Even M popping her head out the forward hatch and Ahemming them did nothing to dampen the party.

Maybe we are just getting old, or maybe a bit jealous, but we do need our sleep. It is bad enough having disturbed sleep through high winds in the rigging and ferry wash tsunamis, without having to endure substance fuelled excessive hedonism

M actually contacted the charter company to shop them, quite rightly as they were in no fit state to be afloat. No reply.

A touch of the Victoria Meldrews.

Zorba theme tune. De ding.

The next day we left. I had planned to give them my most severe stare and head shake on leaving, but of course, they would not be conscious to receive their punishment. Hopefully they suffered.

I did toy with the idea of going along side and getting out the loud hailer and the pots and pans but that would have been childish, indeed the behaviour about which I was complaining. So we snuck off.

There was a gentle sail to be had down to the S end of Leros and then further S to Vathi on Kalymnos.

Vathy entrance. (Arty mode)

Vathi is a very picturesque deep and high gulf and is a favourite of tripper boats. The capacity for yachts is small but if you time it right you can get onto the quay that the trippers use after they have departed for the afternoon. Which is exactly what we did. This is better than going further up the harbour as the depths get marginal for a boat our size.

We last came here 3 yrs ago, pre-pandemic. Absolutely nothing had changed. Spongebob … a local chap who runs a sponge stall close to the quay arrived to help everyone berth as he did previously, wearing a giant sponge on his head and sporting a very fine beard. Quite a spectacle.

La lune et Venus sur l'eau.

A very pretty spot. As we left the taverna that evening we were rewarded by a huge full moon shining up the fiord and reflected on the water. Lovely.

Again the forecast warns of 35 kn meltemi winds afoot so our next port will be aiming for the safe harbour of Kalymnos town.