Soap and Muck

We set off early to make our way south again to the Datca peninsula and arrived in Knidos in time for lunch after a splendid sail. We had the bay to ourselves and enjoyed a couple of hours of swimming in the emerald clear water there and enjoying the dramatic backdrop. It is certainly food for thought to imagine the old city there, buzzing with ancient civilisation and Triremes in the harbour.

Bodrum to palamut

The wind picked up for our onward sail to Palamut where we snuck into a tiny berth. A somewhat anxious looking skipper watched our ingress with increasing alarm. A lady member of the crew was filming us continuously. ‘You need anchor out ! Anchor!!’

Almond and Bulgar salad. 

He looked a bit embarrassed as I showed him my remote control and explained that indeed our anchor was chugging out.

As soon as we were tied up he introduced himself. ‘ I am Murat Aras !’ I obviously looked a bit blank. ‘ and my friend here is Arda Esen !’. Again my blank expression must have been all too obvious. ‘ We are famous around here! I am a screen writer for Turkey’s most favourite soap and Arda is a famous actor in many films!’ 

We assumed an impressed reaction and asked about his work. He said that they were currently making comedic you tube films about sailing and handed us his card. ‘ Sailing Kalamari’ ...’ look us up ! ‘ We promised that we would and couldn’t resist handing him ours, suggesting that he might look at our blog. If you’re reading this Murat - welcome!

We asked about writing comedy in Turkey and whether there were no-go areas, and he replied as long as you don’t venture into religion or politics there is no problem. He told us that he loves British comedy and cited Yes minister as a particular favourite, followed by Fawlty Towers. We suggested that although these indeed were wonderful classics he may enjoy some of the more current humour and suggested The Thick of It.

Before settling back to enjoy our post sail beer, I noticed that our boat was looking rather grubby next to the rather beautiful shiny and immaculate gullet parked nearby. I spent a virtuous hour polishing our stainless steel so that we twinkled in an acceptable manner. It was hard work and I thought I’d earned my cool amber liquid.

A hing oot?

‘ Excuse me !’, rang out. I couldn’t work out who belonged to the disembodied voice until several repeats clarified it to belong to a lady on the gullet. It turned into a bit of a ‘ hing oot’ . For non Scottish readers, this means hanging out of your window having a chat with another in a similar circumstance nearby.

From the splendid comfort of the pristine gullet I learned that she and her husband came every year, chartering the whole boat for themselves. They invited us to join them for a drink in the village and we spent an interesting evening with Lady Helen and Richard. He informed us of his family business which makes drain cleaning rods and sells globally . 

Moonrise

Apparently the company Horobin started making ram rods for cannons, before diversifying into chimney sweeping rods, and now into drain unblockers. Fascinating. The final confirmation that where there is muck there is brass.

They had left by the time we emerged the following morning . We decided that we would head for Datca . Saturday market day was pending, and we were needing provisions. Who can resist the magic lure of this fantastic market. It is a sensory explosion of colour, sounds, and smells. Off we went.

We were welcomed again by the harbour master who is now getting to recognise us from afar. All seemed calm there today. He was not wringing hands in despair. No marital bust ups or anchoring fiascos this time … I mean from others of course.. not us !

Can I take your pulse?

The market did not disappoint and we loaded up with all the usual veg, but piles of green beans, lemons and samphire too. I haven’t quite worked out what to do with it yet but it looked so amazing I couldn’t resist. Lemons earmarked for 2^nd batch of lemon cordial.

Another Brit came for a chat. ‘ Terribly sorry, but I think we may have fouled your anchor on the way in ‘

‘ Don’t worry we said… we’ll let you leave first tomorrow.

‘ Ah…… My wife wants to go to the market before we leave..’

‘ No problem, I’m going too’

So we sat ready and waiting for her return……the morning dragged on…………………..Nada.

‘Do you know when she’ll be back ? ‘

‘Ah…. Well, she may be some time… she’ll be buying yet more handbags. I wouldn’t really like to say.... 

we’ve only been married forty years.’

Lady Antioch. We sailed on her once before.   

In the end we could stand the tension no more and decided to make a bid for freedom. He stood ready to let out more anchor chain should we be caught, but all went well and no chance to test the new device. We sailed off heading further up the gulf.

We had a lovely run to a little bay that we found last year opposite Orhaniye, Kuyulu Buku. It’s barely mentioned in the pilot book and last year we enjoyed a couple of days of complete solitude there. Our secret.

Secret bay. Well nearly. 

Of course word has got out and there were 3 other yachts anchored there when we arrived. No matter, it was still peaceful and we enjoyed a beautiful full moon and starscape with a good sighting of Mars, orchestrated by owls hooting.

Moon and Mars. Honest, top right. 

We lingered there in the morning, enjoying the swimming and solitude as our neighbours left. There has been a pattern for past few days of little wind in the morning, picking up at around 2. So we had a lazy lunch before heading towards Bozburun, another previous favourite. A busy little harbour with gullet building as its main industry.

We unfurled the genoa and were a bit taken aback when two bats flew out! They were also somewhat startled out of a snooze,  ejected into dazzling sunshine and flew around in circles in a panic. Sorry guys!

 We have previously found that birds love nesting in the boom. At least we are providing some temporary accommodation for the local ecosystem!