Stern-to fun

Amazingly the partiers were all up and sprightly at an early hour. It turns out the majority of them are Scots and made of hardy partying material. M sat up fuming at them apparently - I checked out of consciousness in the usual fashion.
We lifted the anchor and set off for Paxos, one of the islands at the lower end of Corfu, the other being anti-Paxos.
There was a gentle sailing breeze from the S when we set off but as we rounded the bottom of Corfu it picked up a bit and veered W. We were just forward of a broad reach all the way to our destination.
I went below to read the pilotage for 15 minutes or so and noticed that lee windows were under water. Either M. was trying to get the hull cleaned or it had picked up a bit. When I got up the companionway (walking at about 80 degreees from vertical) I found we were thundering along, sheets pinned in with 28-30 knots of wind on a dead beam reach clocking 8.6 over the ground. This is officially termed tonking.
The entrance into Gaios, the port on Paxos is not obvious from the sea but it rapidly became clear with yachts racing for the entrance from several directions. The reason being that mooring up here is very tricky, very competitive and one of sailings dark arts. Berthing stern to the quay using the anchor instead of laid mooring lines.
The harbour in Gaios is a narrow channel between the mainland and its offlying island, Agios Nicholaos (they are all called Agios Nicholaos). It is quite shallow, there are rocks about, there are areas for tripper boats, an area for ferries and an area for the seaplane. So not a lot of space for yachts. Given that it is also a regular flotilla destination, there can only be fun! Huge scope for crossing anchors.
 We got in behind one yacht and just ahead of two others. I was eyeing up a spot when the yacht ahead turned adeptly dropped his anchor right in front of me and reversed into the space. He had done it before and I was too slow.
I by this time, had drifted past the second most obvious spot so motored down to the South end of the harbour and turned round for another run over the target. By this time the chap behind me was manoeuvring to take this one. However his wife, bless her, was still messing about trying to untie the anchor whereas we had ours ready, hanging at waterline level and ready to deploy. My adversary lost his position and went off to turn round for another go, but too late - in we went.
It was at this moment I realised we were pulling up alongside the lead boat for the Summer Sail Week flotilla of Scottish party animals! Not only that but his dinghy was in the way and would obstruct my entry. To be fair a young Aussie bloke leapt into action and sorted it out so we made a dignified entry. The boat on the other side was crewed by some German and Japanese chaps. They helped us with the ropes and all was well.
We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the time honoured sport of watching yacht mooring with cold beer - endless entertainment.
I have to say Gaios and Paxos are enchanting. Gaios itself is a beautifully kept little town which, although geared to living from the tourist trade, still seems to be a real town with a viable local community. Again it has historical British leanings and legacy with a range of people settling here in the 1960s in alternative communities.
The party team were giving it laldy (non-Scots will have to Google it) until the wee small hours again but fortunately they were at the other end of the harbour, The lead crew were obviously parked well away from them and having nothing to do with it. The rest of the harbour was also vibrant until late.
M and I first came to Greece just after graduation before we started work. At that time we were bright young things, a bit like these kids, so we can't complain. M thinks they are OTT but I think she maybe can't remember exactly what we got up to.
When we first came the tourists were exclusively youngsters like ourselves, being served from the Government standard menu in Tavernas and restaurants run by impoverished elderly Greek waiters in white shirts black waistcoats.  Today the tourist population consists of the same people, just 40 years older, now being served by impoverished young Greeks.
So I am pleased to see youngsters enjoying partying and sailing in the Med and hopefully they will come back to help maintain the local economy in the future.
Today we voted to have a non-sailing day here. We went for a walk into the (steep) interior and then back to the coast. It is all very pretty, verdant and floral. M has taken loads of flower photos in her Fotherington-Thomas persona.
We followed M's app for not getting lost on the West Highland way. It does not work in Greece.
We followed various paths starting with thick black lines, becoming double dotted lines, becoming single dotted lines developing into dots increasingly widely spaced. This latter indicates brambles and spiky things to scratch your bare ankles.
We were both very taken with Paxos but a quick visit to the Estate Agents showed conclusively that a Pied a Terre here is not going to happen.